Our pulleys are available in three (3) types:
Underdriving/underdrive is slowing the speed of the accessories, or the driven component, from their original factory speed. Underdriving can be done in two ways. First is by increasing the diameter of the accessory pulley/s. The problem with this method is it increases the size of the accessory pulley/s which increases their weight. Weight reduction is the most important key to increasing engine performance and response. This method also eliminates the ability to underdrive the a/c that robs alot of horsepower. The second, which we use, is reducing the diameter of the crank pulley. This allows us to achieve the best ratio of underdriving, and most importantly maximizes the reduction of weight on the crankshaft. This reduction in weight reduces the moment of inertia allowing your engine to respond faster to throttle inputs and perform better at all RPM's. This method also allows underdriving of the a/c we can maximize the performance of our kits by not leaving any accessories to rob precious horsepower from your engine. Top
Weight reduction is how we are able to increase Horsepower! Each pound of weight removed from the crankshaft is worth approximately 2.7HP and the gains jump even more dramatically with forced induction, nitrous and variable valve timing. Only 15-20% of the gains from our pulleys come from underdriving. The diameter of each of our crank pulleys is reduced up to 20%. We tailor the exact amount of underdrive to each vehicle to maintain factory specified accessory output and performance. We fully maintain all accessory output minimums like air conditioning efficiency, power steering feel, and voltage (minimum allowable voltage 12v) even at idle with everything electrical on in the car. There are no adverse effects from using any of our pulley versions. Bolt them on and forget about them, then just follow your vehicles normal maintenance schedule. Top
People are getting their crank pulleys confused with the harmonic dampers found on some domestic V6 & V8 engines. "Harmonic Balancer" is a term used loosely in the automotive industry. Technically, this type of device does not exist. The "balancer" part comes from engines that are externally balanced and have a counterweight cast into the damper. None of the applications we offer use a counterweight as part of the pulley, as these engines are all internally balanced.
The pulleys on most of the new import and smaller domestic engines have an elastomer (rubber ring) incorporated into the pulley making them look similar to a harmonic damper. The elastomer in the OEM pulley serves as an isolator, which is there to suppress noise from the engine accessories; the A/C compressor, P/S pump, and alternator. This is what the manufacturers call NVH (Noise Vibration & Harshness) when referring to noticeable noise and vibration in the passenger compartment. It is important to realize in these applications, the elastomer is inadequate in size and durability to act as an effective torsional damper. If you look at the pulleys on some imports there is no rubber to be found at all. We have samples of these, mostly from Acura/Honda B & D Series engines, Nissan Altima, 1.8L Eclipse, 2.3L Fords, Chrysler 2.2L's, and 1.8L VW's just to mention a few. Most owners who have installed our pulleys notice the engine actually feels smoother. This is result of replacing the heavy crank pulley with our crank pulley. NVH is variable and unique to every car. NVH will increase with the installation of an aftermarket intake and/or exhaust, for example. Think of OEM intake systems in newer cars, they use baffles and resonators in the intake to quiet all the intake noise. Aftermarket intakes eliminate these resonators and create dramatic increases in engine noise from the throttle opening and closing. So to most tuners, certain types of NVH can make the driving experience more enjoyable.
The purpose of a traditional harmonic damper is to protect against crank failure from torsional movement and frequencies of high amplitude. This is not necessary in most modern engines because of the many advances in engine design and materials. Factors such as shorter stroke length, smaller displacement, piston dwell time, piston pin off-set, power output, etc., do determine when and how these harmonics and torsional movements occur. More importantly the actual tune of the engine, espcially with modified vheciles, is the biggest factor in potential engine damage. Poor tuning leads to detonation which is an engine killer that no damper can stop.
Again, there is a lot of internet hearsay about solid crank pulleys. When engine problems occur, too often people are quick to blame the pulley first, rather than taking the time to look logically into why there was a problem. We hope that after reading this you will understand our crank pulleys better. Top
Urban myths have been floating around about Honda oil pumps failing by using an Unorthodox Racing crank pulley/s. The real fact is that these OEM pumps have been failing with AND WITHOUT the use of our pulleys and before our crank pulley/s were available on the market. Also note that these failures are few and far in between.
The Acura/Honda oil pumps are excellent units, but there are a number of reasons for the failures that do occur.
Most of the oil pump failures have been in Acura/Honda B series 1.6/1.8L applications, Chrsyler SRT4, Mazda 1.6/1.8L applications have seen a few failures, as well as the new Ford Focus ZETEC in race vehicles. Again, note that on all these applications the oil pump failures have occurred on engines not even using our pulley, they were using the stock crank pulley.
These pump failures can be linked to the following causes. These causes may act individually or in combination to cause the actual failures:
# The gears used in many pumps including those in the Honda B series engines and Mazda Miata engines are of a low-cost powdered metal composition. The factory uses this metal because of its acceptable cost-to-strength ratio. The problem is, these parts are not always deburred properly from the factory and when pushed to their limits can and do fail. # Many times additional stress is added to the oil pump by using oil thicker than what is specified by the manufacturer. The oil pump and bearing clearances were not designed from the factory to push oil of higher viscosities. This extra stress on the gears, combined with the above mentioned poor deburring process, can attribute to oil pump failure or engine failure. # Another contributing factor to oil pump failures is the weak cast backing plate of the B16/B18 oil pumps. Simple inspection shows that when compared to an H22 oil pump, a screw is not present in a critical location of the plate in the B series pumps. Compound this with the use of a higher viscosity motor oil and poorly deburred pump components and you have the ingredients for an oil pump failure. # This issue, specific to the Mazda 1.6/1.8L engines, involves the flex of the crankshaft and the lower half of the engine due to the additional stress of a forced induction system (such as a turbo or supercharger). The additional stress produced by forced induction causes flexing of both the block and the crankshaft between the front main bearing and the oil pump. This can also contribute to oil pump failure. Early Miatas were notorious for having crankshaft problems and later models suffered from problems as power is increased significantly.
Lastly, any failure inside a motor, related to aging components or a poor engine rebuild, can cause the oil pump to fail. ANY particles passing through an oil pump design such as that used in the Honda B series engines will cause damage or failure.
Remember that oil pump failures happen regularly on engines using a factory crank pulley. To help combat these failures, a few steps should be taken to help prolong the life of your oil pump and engine:
# Unless building a race motor with race clearances in mind, you should always use an oil viscosity matching, or as close to the factory recommendations as possible. # If using a factory oil pump, always have your oil pump components deburred properly. It is recommended you have a competent engine rebuilder handle this. # For those who run dedicated / extreme race vehicles we recommend using an external wet or dry sump oiling system. These systems are designed for the heavy abuse a race engine receives on the track. Remember, the stock oiling systems were designed for factory horsepower levels and can only handle a certain amount of power increase over that level.
Lastly and most obvious, have a competent, trusted machine or performance shop rebuild your precious motor. It only takes one simple mistake to turn a costly engine rebuild into a doorstop.
If you have any other questions about this subject please don't hesitate to give us a call or drop us an e-mail. We take great pride in the craftsmanship of our products and are constantly striving to provide the highest quality products available to you, our customers. Top
This is a fear many prospective owners have and is a valid concern since we are dealing directly with the rotating assembly. Fortunately it is another urban myth with no basis in fact. The fact is our pulleys have the opposite effect on engine bearings. The combination of tight tolerances, precise quality control, perfect balance, and dramatic weight loss versus the stock pulleys reduces stress loads on your engine, extending the service life of your engine. Engine bearing problems are purely associated to poor engine maintenance, use of heavier than factory recommended oils, improper engine building practices (which includes poor balancing), excessively revving of engines when they are cold, and owners expecting their factory oil pumps to handle engine power outputs beyond 3, 4, even 5+ times the stock power levels. Top
Actually the answer is fairly complex but has a simple answer. Automobile manufacturers state if a specific component is not designed by them for use on your vehicle from the factory, then the component voids your warrantee. This area has been a hotbed of controversy for years. SEMA has been working feverishly to protect owner’s rights on this issue because many aftermarket products are viable replacements, if not better in design and function than the factory component.
Our pulleys are one of many products, from air intakes to computer chips to exhaust systems that fall into this category. The simple truth is that most dealers are looking for any excuse to avoid working on vehicles modified with aftermarket performance parts.
The solution is the MAGNUSON-MOSS WARRANTY IMPROVEMENT ACT, which requires the dealer or Manufacturer to prove the aftermarket part you are using actually caused a failure or problem with the vehicle. So if your dealer gives you a hard time let him know you are aware of your rights and they should back down quickly.
The key is owners must be aware these situations can arise and this is clearly stated in the back of the owner’s manual that non-OEM products void the manufacturer warrantee. This, not surprisingly, includes performance parts designed by car manufacturers (i.e. Ford Motorsports, TRD, Mazda Competition and GM Performance to name a few).Top
In most cases if you can change your oil or do a tune-up, then you can install one of our crank pulleys. Each of our pulley/s or sets comes with model-specific instructions covering everything from jacking up the car to the factory torque specifications. It is important for you to be aware that although the product seems simple it is critical it be installed properly. Our instructions are not a replacement for a factory service manual. So if you're not sure go to a professional.
An installation done by a professional mechanic should take no longer than one (1) hour for crank pulleys and up to two (2) hours for pulleys sets. Top
Yes. Belts must be changed with most of our underdrive pulleys. This is because the pulleys are up to 20% smaller than the factory pulleys. The installation instructions we supply with each kit includes the part number/s for the belt/s we have found to work most consistently. The belt/s you will need are available from your local auto store. If you find a belt size other than the recommended size that works please let us know.
We recommend the use of Gates belts. It is important that the belts are slightly over tightened when they are first installed as belts naturally stretch when new. We do not supply the belts with our kits for three reasons. First we refuse to use inferior quality belts like those used by other pulley manufactures. For instance one manufacturer claims they use the factory OEM supplier. The problem is that manufacturers don't always use the highest quality belt because they see belts as a limited life span component that they can save money on. Second, we don't feel that our customers should have to pay NY prices (Long Island has some of the highest pricing in the country) for their belts, as most of you will be able to find the belts for a lower price in your area. Third, if an owner happens to have a rare car that needs a different belt than the ones we have found to work they would have get involved in shipping it back, exchanging the belt, and paying for additional shipping charges. Belt sizing can vary due to the OEM manufacturer's production cycle. This is due to the use of different accessories, different brackets, or a combination of both. Top
The hard black anodizing on some of our acessory pulleys is for done for wear protection. It protects the aluminum from the back of the belt. As a belt ages it hardens and becomes almost like sand paper. Without the hard black anodizing the belt would cut right through the aluminum. Top
The only maintenance required is to check and replace the accessory belts at the manufacturer's specified intervals. Otherwise you basically bolt on our pulleys and forget about them. Top
The pulleys have nothing to do with the transmission and the gear ratios. The pulleys only change the speed of the accessories and nothing else. The transmission and the differential, as well as tire size, control engine RPM at any given speed. Top
Our underdrive pulleys are designed to allow for the addition of aftermarket stereo systems up to approximately 600 watts RMS. If the stereo system in question is above that wattage amount then the owner can purchase our stock diameter crank pulley will maintain the voltage output just like the stock crank pulley.
Capacitors are a smart addition to any audion system as they store the power the amplifiers need for peak draw. Our stock diameter series used with capacitors allow the vehicle owner to achieve the cleanest and most powerful sound with no loss in voltage output. Another good option would be to install a second battery or batteries just for the stereo. Top
At this time we are not making a/c pulleys because of the clutch mechanism. We are, however, looking into doing them in the near future. Note that the a/c is still driven in a number of our pulley types and kits so there is no need to delete or remove the a/c. Remember, many of our pulley types and sets underdrive the a/c which can pick up a considerable amount of previously lost power. Top
An Unorthodox Racing lightened adjustable cam sprocket (Ultra T) is an adjustable sprocket that enables enthusiasts/racers to adjust the relationship between the crankshaft and the camshaft, allowing for optimized cam angles. These changes in relation to cam and crank can dramatically affect the peak HP, its placement in the rev-band, and HP characteristics throughout the rev-band. Unorthodox Racing lightened adjustable cam sprockets allow for cam degree changes of up to 10 degrees positive or negative. These sprockets are manufactured to tolerances (.001") traditionally reserved for aviation, military, and professional racing use and the timing marks on are cam sprockets are held to within 1 minute of a degree (60 minutes being in a degree).
The timing marks are also engraved in the hard black anodized outer toothed section, which vastly improves readability during adjusting because of the wider spacing and the silver on black contrast of the marks in the anodizing. Our Ultra T sprockets are lighter than their non-adjustable OEM counterparts, following our tradition of reducing rotational mass for enhanced engine performance. We use only the highest quality stainless steel hardware (washers and bolts), 5 for each sprocket, so you can enjoy years of flawless performance and looks. The 5 bolt pattern assures that our sprockets will remained locked in place once they are set. Top
Changes in the relationship between the crankshaft and the camshaft can increase HP in DOHC cars from 8-16 HP for normally aspirated engines and 12-24 HP for forced induction engines. SOHC owners can expect small increases in HP (2-4 HP) in certain parts of the power band. SOHC owner can also shift their power curve from the stock setting to low-rpm improvements (off the line enhancements) or high rpm improvements.
Adjustments vary depending on whether the engine is SOHC or DOHC and whether it uses forced induction or is normally aspirated. We have found for stock and mildly modified DOHC engines, whether forced induction or normally aspirated, that 2-3 degrees negative on the exhaust and 1-2 degrees positive on the intake (again varying slightly from engine to engine) produce the highest overall gains throughout the engines RPM band. SOHC cam owners can adjust their cam for optimized low-rpm performance (amount of total adjustment varies from engine to engine and should be done in one degree positive increments until peak low-rpm performance has been achieved), by advancing their cam.
SOHC cam owners can adjust their cam for optimized high-rpm performance (amount of total adjustment varies from engine to engine and should be done in one degree negative increments until peak high-rpm performance has been achieved), by retarding their cam. Owners who are beyond the basic bolt-on parts would find themselves best served by having their sprockets adjusted while measuring engine output on a dyno or at the track. Top
Actually the answer is fairly complex. Car Manufacturers state that if a specific component is not designed by the original manufacturer, or an OEM supplier specifically for use on your vehicle from the factory, then that component voids your warrantee. This is an area that has been a hotbed of controversy for years. SEMA has been working feverishly to protect owner's rights on this issue because many aftermarket products are viable replacements if not better in design and function than the factory component. The federal government has passed a law, the Magnuson Act, which forces manufacturers/dealers to prove that the after-market parts installed on the vehicle have caused the specific problem/s that have brought the owner in on a warrantee claim.
Unorthodox Racing adjustable cam sprockets are one of many such products, from air intakes to computer chips to exhaust systems. The simple truth is that most dealers are looking for any excuse to avoid working on vehicles modified with aftermarket performance parts because of their lack of technical experience. If a product is CARB compliant, the component being deemed a replacement part, it is more difficult for manufacturers/dealers to reject warrantee claims and emissions compliance.
The key is that owners must be aware that these situations can arise and this is clearly stated in the back of their owner's warrantee manual that non-OEM products void the manufacturer warrantee. This not surprisingly includes performance parts designed by car manufacturers (i.e. Ford Motorsports, TRD, Mazda Competition and GM Performance to name a few). Owners must be aware of the legislation that has been enacted to protect them from random acts of warrantee voiding. Top
Installation of adjustable cam sprockets is one of the more difficult bolt-on installation. The key to the difficulty is the importance of sprocket alignment to the factory specified alignment marks. These alignment marks, installation marks, are only correct if the engine has been located at TDC (top dead center). Add to this equation that some engines use balance shafts and the alignment procedure can even more difficult. Each of our sprocket kits comes with model specific installation instructions, including torque specification on the factory mounting hardware. But we feel that this installation is better left to a professional installer unless the owner of the vehicle has a good deal of mechanical experience (i.e. having done engine disassembly, or camshaft installation before).
We have found through our testing of DOHC engines that 2-3 degrees retard on the exhaust sprocket and 1 to 2 degrees advance on the intake sprocket yields the best overall gains for stock and mild modified engines. SOHC engines also gain HP, not quite the double-digit figures seen by some DOHC engines, but they also have the ability to shift the power-band from low RPM performance to upper RPM band performance. Advancing the a SOHC sprocket will increase low rpm performance and retarding a SOHC sprocket will enhance high RPM performance.
The adjustment or settings for both DOHC and SOHC engines can also be done through dyno tuning which offers the most precise tuning of this product. The additional money spent can mean the difference of more than a few HP (or the shifting of the power band to a specific spot for SOHC owners) especially on vehicles, which have more than the standard bolt-on's. Top
That decision should be based on a number of factors. First is the amount of mileage accumulated by the belt, factory recommendations vary so check your owners manual. If you have less than half of the recommended mileage the stock belt can be re-used as long as there are no visible deformities or abrasions. Anything beyond the half way point will require close inspection and if even the slightest wear is visible the belt/s should be changed for safeties sake, as the motor is most likely driven aggressively and the recommendations do not take into account the top ¼ of drivers (the performance enthusiast).
Safety is the key parameter in this decision as the additional parts and labor cost at installation is much cheaper than engine damage at a later date (many engines are non-clearance or interference and losing the timing belt would cause major valve/piston damage). We recommend the use of the factory OEM timing belts. Top
This is a fear many prospective owners have and it is a valid concern since we are dealing directly with the rotating assembly. This is a fear, as far as Unorthodox Racing adjustable cam sprockets are concerned, that is of no concern. Our lightened adjustable cam sprockets are manufactured to tolerances (.001") traditionally reserved for aviation, military, and professional racing use and the timing marks on are cam sprockets are held to within 1 minute of a degree (60 minutes being in a degree).
Unfortunately today there are manufacturers that offer adjustable cam sprockets but fail to follow the strict tolerances we hold in the machining process. The important fact owners must understand, with rotating parts on the engine and accessories, is that cam sprockets rotate at half the rate of the crankshaft. This fact is of prime concern because it will take twice as long for an engine problem to develop. Lastly our adjustable cam sprockets are lighter in weight than the OEM sprockets. Top
The hard black anodizing on our Ultra T lightened adjustable cam sprockets is for long-term protection of the aluminum from the abrasion of the timing belt. The hard black anodizing will not wear away on the belt sections where the belts ride on the sprockets. This protection allows for years of wear-free service and promises that your investment in our products will be well rewarded with years of flawless performance. Aluminum toothed sprocket sections must be hard anodized or they will wear out in a few short months in a daily driven car and can cause substantial damage. Top
The only maintenance required is to check and replace the timing belts at the manufacturers specified intervals or sooner based on your driving habits. In addition we recommend the periodic checking of the tension on the five fasteners, we chose to use five fasteners for the added security. The fasteners should be tightened in a star pattern and only need to be hand tight; over-tightening is unnecessary and will cause the threads to strip out over time. Other than these requirements you basically bolt on the sprockets, adjust them to the desired settings and forget about them. Top
Each Unorthodox Racing Ultra G clutch kit is a direct replacement for the stock clutch and will work with most stock and aftermarket flywheels. They are made with all new components. We match all the components to ensure proper fit, function and balance. Disc materials used include 100% pure Kevlar, segmented ceramic, paddle-style ceramic, and paddle style feramic. All these materials are matched to our heavy duty pressure plates to ensure a perfect fit, exceptional durability, and maximized holding capacity without the need for additional pedal pressure over a stock clutch. Top
Our clutch holding capacities are determined through a number of variables including the disc material, pressure plate load, disc size, vehicle weight, drive type (2WD Vs. 4WD), and so forth. Ratings are based on the Torque output of the engine. To help decide which clutch is right for you, use our Disc System™ chart to determine the correct clutch for your application. Top
Unorthodox Racing has spent many hours designing and testing each model, both on the street and on the track, to ensure that each clutch provides maximum performance without compromising driveability or long-term durability. The design of each clutch assembly is tailored to maintain original equipment type driveability with maximum holding power. The engagement point of any new clutch must be learned by the owner and the shorter pedal travel sometimes experienced with certain clutches will be hardly noticeable after the break-in period (300-1000 miles). Our clutch materials have been chosen to avoid harsh engagement, and discs are available in either sprung or rigid configurations. Top
For the most part, our clutches are installed the same way any stock clutch would be installed. However, there are a few important notes to be aware of when installing rigid style discs. Included in each Ultra G clutch package are important procedures that must be followed by the installer during these types of installations. Many mechanics, especially dealership mechanics who only use original equipment parts, are not used to rigid/unsprung hubs and have a tendency to follow the standard installation procedures for sprung hub clutches. Not following these important procedures during installation may result in a bent clutch disc, which would void the warranty. A bent clutch disc is caused by the transmission being hung on the hub of the rigid/unsprung clutch disc during remounting of the transmission. This procedure is allowable for sprung hub clutches because of the play on the springs and the disc. A bent rigid/unsprung clutch disc will not engage or disengage properly causing gear grinding, chattering, or even not being able to put the transmission in gear. Top
Each clutch is balanced to standards that exceed original equipment specifications. We only use the highest quality components and combine them with the strongest discs, hubs, springs, and rivets that are available today. The consistency of the components and materials used in every Ultra G clutch are perfectly matched and balanced specifically for each application. These measures ensure the holding power and long-term durability of our clutches are unmatched in the industry, providing the quality owners come to expect from Unorthodox Racing. Top
Actually the answer is fairly complex. Automobile manufacturers state if a specific component is not designed by them or an OEM supplier specifically for use on your vehicle from the factory then the component voids your warranty. This area has been a hotbed of controversy for years. SEMA (Specialty Equipment Market Association) has been working feverishly to protect owners rights on this issue because many aftermarket products are viable replacements, if not better in design and function, for the factory component. UNORTHODOX RACING Ultra G clutches are one of many such products, from air intakes to computer chips to exhaust systems. The simple truth is that most dealers are looking for any excuse to avoid working on vehicles modified with aftermarket performance parts. The key is that owners must be aware that these situations can arise and this is clearly stated in the back of their owner's manual that non-OEM products void the manufacturer warranty. This, not surprisingly, includes performance parts designed by car manufacturers (i.e. Ford Motorsports, TRD, Mazda Competition and GM Performance to name a few). Top
If you are changing the clutch there is almost no additional labor for installing a new flywheel because the clutch is bolted to the flywheel and it involves the same amount of labor anyway. While you can use any stock or aftermarket clutch/flywheel, we recommend our heavy duty clutches and flywheels which are available for almost any application. Top